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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small shop securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.